Lost in the jungle!

Lost in the jungle

After a morning in the saddle sightseeing and learning about the Vietnam War, it was time for a little trek in the jungle.

Diary entry:

‘Lulu escorts us to a waterfall and shows us the path to follow which will take us to the second waterfall where he and Phuk will be waiting to pick us up. Our only instructions are:

“Turn left at the first turning”

Fantastic, couldn’t be easier. So off we trot, happy to be relieving our saddle bum in the stunning lush jungle. It’s 3.30pm and the gently lowering sun shines brightly through the gaps in the trees. We take the first left turning only to be confronted by an angry barking dog protecting the house that we are about to walk in to.

“Ok, that was a small path; it must be the next left turning.”
So we continue along the brick red path that has already covered our shoes and trousers with its potent dust.

“Ah, ha! Another left turning”

This time we come across fields filled with small shrubs dripping with thousands of red, orange and green chilli peppers. They look so beautiful. We come across a group of local farmers who are busy munching on great big slices of crunchy semi-ripe papaya that they have just picked from a tree. They look momentarily taken aback at the sight of 3 western girls roaming around this remote backcountry alone, but smile generously and offer us some of their snack. As we stand around noisily chomping on the fruit dipped into an interesting concoction of salt, sugar and chilly, they confirm our suspicions through exaggerated hand signals that we are going the wrong way. We say our goodbyes and in another direction.

Getting directions from the papaya lady.

Suddenly, one of the papaya ladies comes running after us pointing at the sun and waving her arms around like a mad women. We think she is telling us that the route we are taking will take us 2 hours as she points nervously at the rapidly setting sun. It takes us about 20 minutes to convey to her that we have to go this way because our guides are meeting us at the second waterfall. She is adamant however, that we will not make it and walks us right back to where Lulu left us and points us down a completely different path that she assures us will take us to the second waterfall.

In spite of our anxiety about whether we are heading to the right place due to the complete language barrier, we trust the kind lady. We are now stomping down the meandering path, heading deeper and deeper into the jungle to the chorus of screeching mosquito’s.

“Shit, we are in the jungle at dusk near the Cambodian border, was this a spot marked red on my malaria map?”

I quit my malaria pills 2 weeks ago!

We have no water, no food, no DEET and to tourch talk about travelling prepared! An hour later just as the light fades dangerously fast, we finally hit a road. Never have I been so happy to see beautiful tarmac! All my visions of bedding down on the jungle carpet being eaten alive by mosquitoes and snakes instantly evaporate. As we march down the road we are greeted by the roaring sounds of thousands of litres of gushing water. This has got to be the waterfall, and sure enough as we come around the corner we are greeted by the sight of a phenomenal mini Niagara falls type waterfall. But we are not interested in sightseeing no matter how impressive this particular point of interest might be, and our elation at the thought of being saved quickly gives way to a sinking feeling as we realise the place is deserted, no motorbikes, no guides.

We see a road at the other side of the waterfall. Has this different path led us to the wrong side? Unable to see any way of crossing this vast expanse of water, we resume our march back up the road. Then comes the true highlight of my day, as we are dazzled by bright lights and the sounds of friendly beeping horns, yes our chariot awaits. Phuk and Lulu had gone back to the start of the walk thinking we had been scared off by the animals in the jungle and aborted our mission. How dare they undermine our adventurous spirit! Only then do they tell us that all the dangerous snakes come out to play at dusk.